In a European season sturdy on denim, Junya Watanabe’s designs win the seaming, quantity and creativeness sweepstakes.
Right here was a resolutely radical assortment as prickly as a cactus, constructed on jutting geometric shapes – pyramids, arcs, cylinders and planks. It’s as if the fashions had been magnets and steel constructing blocks had randomly coagulated round them.
Watanabe stated the gathering theme was “creating objects, not garments” and you may think about whomever is behind the Instagram account Rick Dick scouring the web for photographs of Moravian stars to juxtapose with these pointy clothes.
There have been acquainted Watanabe archetypes – his beloved leather-based biker jackets, bombers and summary takes on Rue Cambon – plus a triangular tackle jodhpurs that appeared match for the metaverse.
Zippers, metallic snaps, tweed materials and gold button signaled these archetypes, however silhouette had been abstracted by way of exploded sleeves, extra material flaps, portholes of varied shapes, and dangling rods of cloth, straight or arched. The designs additionally got here in black and crimson felt.
Suffice to say, these spiky clothes, or objects, are for collectors, and definitely not commuters. You may take somebody’s eye out.
However in a season of secure, business collections, it was exhilarating to observe Watanabe stick his neck out with wondrous new types for which a style vocabulary has but to be invented.