Wine & Dine

Textual content by Ranjabati Das. All interviews by Asad Sheikh. Images by Angus Guite.

Excerpts from the dialog….

Inform us a bit about your self.
My household is from Manipur however I grew up in Assam, principally in a boarding faculty. Then I accomplished my diploma in textiles from NID [National Institute of Design], Ahmedabad. I joined Uncooked Mango proper after commencement and I labored with them till final yr. Not too long ago, I headed to Bengaluru to work with my sister and her associate who’ve began an organization referred to as Nari & Kāge, which is an artisanal cheese store. We make cheeses starting from the Mexican Manchego to Oaxaca. They began this undertaking through the pandemic and, across the similar time, I needed to shift my profession from textiles and design to a extra food-oriented one.

Did you may have any expertise within the F&B trade previous to Nāri & Kage?
My mom ran a restaurant in Guwahati, for 15 years and my grandmother has been working a Manipuri meals restaurant in Dilli Haat (an open-air complicated catering to Indian crafts and tradition) in Delhi since 1999. Meals has at all times been a mainstay within the household, and the restaurant enterprise has at all times been acquainted floor for me. Meals involves my sister and me very naturally, nearly instinctively.

Once I was within the vogue and design subject, I might really feel drained at instances and I at all times seemed in direction of meals as a type of catharsis. I might need to come again house and prepare dinner a meal for myself. Once I began dwelling alone, I started to attempt to make the meals my mom would make, to eat the meals that my grandmother would prepare dinner.

Cooking, particularly within the wider South Asian context, could be very usually seen via a gendered lens. What was it like in your house?
In our family, cooking was something however gendered. The boys had been fairly energetic within the kitchen. They’d let unfastened on Sundays and use the kitchen as an area to loosen up, have a drink, make a splendid Sunday meal and feed the household. They’d exit within the morning and get the meat and different substances, and this was a weekly ritual.

Salam’s menu options an array of Manipuri dishes. High proper: The preparation of the spicy singju salad.

What sort of temper did you attempt to evoke on the luncheon that you simply hosted for Verve? Have been there any explicit substances, flavours and textures that you simply needed to incorporate within the menu?
I needed to usher in that side of being a household, with my associates. One among my love languages is to prepare dinner and feed folks. It’s at all times been that. I do it for a sure set of people that type my core group: my closest associates and my associate. I feel I discovered this from my household. We’d by no means actually say “I like you” and even hug. I really feel that silent shows of affection pushed by motion are widespread in South Asian households and a technique we’d categorical our love is by cooking for one another.

By way of what I cooked, it was principally the meals that I grew up consuming. We historically use loads of fermentation and I feel that little kick of umami is one thing that we North-Easterners actually love. And over time, my associates have grown to like it too. We additionally use loads of chillies — it’s one thing that we will’t dwell with out. Rice and salt, these are the opposite parts that will probably be there.

Do you discover it tough to supply among the substances in Delhi or in Bengaluru? Do you ever end up carrying substances from Imphal?
Delhi is actually eclectic and has an enormous North-Japanese inhabitants. We’ve got locations like Humayunpur the place we will get the substances that we would like. However there are specific substances that I do deliver with me from my hometown. We’ve got a paddy subject at house and I crave that rice. So, I get three to 4 kilograms of that rice after I go to house. I combine it with different domestically out there rice — particularly sona masuri rice — as a result of I don’t need to expend all of it within the first few months. I am going with the short-grain selection as a result of it’s simpler for me to eat. I grew up consuming it so my physique is accustomed to it. I gained’t say I’m a hater of basmati, nevertheless it isn’t for me. It’s nice for biryani and pulao nevertheless it doesn’t swimsuit the North-Japanese consolation meals that I prepare dinner as a result of basmati isn’t actually utilized in North-Japanese cooking. I additionally deliver smoked meats — particularly pork and rooster — from house, particularly as a result of I haven’t been capable of finding something like them anyplace else.

How do you give you your menus? Do they alter seasonally? What are the standard motivating components behind planning a menu?
My go-to menu is North-Japanese consolation meals as a result of I don’t even have to consider the method. It comes naturally to me. Past that, I like doing picnics in Delhi, with my associates — I’ll bear in mind the house we’re going to be in. I might put together one thing that’s straightforward to eat, and embrace loads of dips and finger meals. I create a spreadsheet and request my associates to choose up just a few substances as per their comfort as a result of it’s at all times good when it’s a collaborative effort.

For, say, a Christmas or Friendsgiving dinner, I like an excellent meat-based pasta dish, like a bolognese. I additionally prefer to bake whole-roasted rooster, shepherd’s pie, potato au gratin, rustic bread, strawberry and cherry pies for these events the place I attempt to incorporate a extra Western palate. Baking has come into my life since I’ve moved away from house. I didn’t develop up with it because it’s not a part of our tradition to bake bread or desserts. My mom would bake after I was youthful however she would use a microwave. I purchased my first oven after I was in my early twenties which is pretty current.

Do you may have a signature internet hosting fashion?
I’m very particular concerning the prep and presentation and I prefer it my area. I say, ‘Sit again, loosen up, play the music, get a drink and let me deal with this, don’t come into the kitchen.’ I don’t like anybody entering into the kitchen after I’m cooking. It’s my house. One or two company, who I belief, could also be allowed in. By way of fashion and aesthetic, I like making the company really feel at house, by creating a way of heat.

What was the preliminary motivation behind documenting your meals spreads on Instagram?
I deal with Instagram like my private scrapbook that simply occurs to be public. I’ve seen folks round me having an unhealthy relationship with social media. I put up posts — principally round meals — after which I’m carried out. I don’t essentially must work together with folks on Instagram.

I’ve at all times preferred documenting my environment. For us queer folks, discovering a way of acceptance of ourselves coincides with making our factors of view clear. Being queer makes you need to perceive your self. So that you begin observing extra, and once you begin documenting your observations, it transforms into an archive that can be utilized for self-reflection. Once I create meals, I {photograph} it. Once I {photograph} a desk, I don’t prefer it to be manicured. I just like the candid facets — folks strolling into the body, going about their actions. I’m not going to ask them to cease for 10 minutes whereas I take images.

Would you say internet hosting these events is a technique to chase away homesickness? Are there any ingrained habits that you’ve got inherited out of your setting at house?
I studied at a boarding faculty and have thus been away from house since I used to be 12. So I wouldn’t actually say that I’m not conscious of what being away from house appears like. However after I was house for just a few months throughout my final-year school tasks that’s after I bought the sense of what it was prefer to be within the kitchen with my mom. The factor is, she by no means actually taught me tips on how to prepare dinner. Possibly, she thought I’d be in the best way — simply the best way I now really feel when folks come into the kitchen after I’m cooking. Generally I feel, “Oh my god, am I changing into my mom?” She wouldn’t inform me if I had to make use of one teaspoon or one tablespoon of this or that. It was extra like “Put this, put that”, and it was carried out. However spending high quality time within the kitchen at the moment, being fed, and feeding gave me a sure pleasure. So, nostalgia does play an enormous half in all of t

When did you begin internet hosting these meals events with your folks?
In Ahmedabad, whereas in school, there have been just a few seniors — from outdoors town — who had been dwelling in rented flats. They’d invite us over and we might prepare dinner collectively. We created a group round meals, which is such a fundamental want. The meals that we made was additionally very fundamental. It was simply dal, boiled greens, meat and rice, however cooking that collectively, and getting away from school and creating one other house and group in kitchens via cooking was fairly a turning level. So I might say that I began this apply in school. It was solely pure that I might proceed it as soon as I bought my very own house and located my circle. Once I moved to Delhi, I didn’t have any associates per se. To me, making associates is about creating life bonds in a private house, and meals turns into a medium for us to attach over.

What does the tradition of consuming collectively imply to you?
I simply love consuming, it’s so simple as that. The truth is, I like consuming alone. Throughout my time in Japan — I used to be at Tama Artwork College in Tokyo from the summer season of 2016 to the winter of 2017 as a part of an alternate programme via which I studied conventional Japanese dyeing methods — I might go to cafes alone, simply sit there, observe, and eat alone. Consuming alone is a very healthful expertise and I would like folks to try this extra usually. And simply as I like cooking for others, I additionally like cooking for myself. Generally, I prepare dinner an entire rooster for myself and eat it over a number of meals as a result of it feels so good to feed your self. I feel that’s so necessary.

However coming again to the thought of consuming collectively, I feel it stems from figuring out tips on how to feed your self. Whenever you’re having a healthful meal, you need to feed your family members too.

Did your ardour for desk setting and meals presentation ever seep into your earlier function as a textile designer and stylist or, conversely, have you ever derived inspiration from design and vogue when it got here to evolving your aesthetic sensibilities round meals and desk styling? Have these two passions ever discovered a gathering level?
I began at Uncooked Mango as a textile designer however by the point I left, I used to be doing a lot extra. Sanjay [Garg, founder of Raw Mango] and I developed an in depth bond. He recognised my potential and would give me the inventive liberty to create the scene for numerous advert campaigns. That positively gave me the boldness to hone my abilities. He trusted me with serving to with styling, doing the decor, setting the tables, sourcing the flowers and extra. We did the Suzegad Festive 2023 marketing campaign, which was shot in Goa, and that required an enormous desk as a part of the primary wedding ceremony scene that the marketing campaign was centred round. We additionally curated a lavish dinner scene for the 2021 Romantics marketing campaign, which we shot in Shimla in direction of the tip of the yr.

What does consolation meals imply to you within the context of the meals that you simply prepare dinner?
The consolation meals that I’ve at all times been leaning in direction of, even whereas rising up, could be very fundamental. You have got proteins and carbohydrates, greens, vitamins, and to that you simply add your cravings. Plenty of instances, we don’t discover vitamins in our go-to meals all through the week, or we eat our meals too shortly. We don’t actually take within the flavours and textures of the meals we eat. However at luncheons or a sit-down meal along with your family and friends, you actually savour what you eat.

How fluid is this whole train? How usually do you organise these meals?
If it turns into monotonous sooner or later, I might cease it. There are days when I’ve deliberate these weeks or a month forward, and there are occasions when I’ve deliberate the meal on the day itself. My associate is Chinese language and he celebrates Chinese language New Yr. One yr, throughout lunch at work, I believed it will be good to host a gathering. As a result of it was to occur that evening, and I actually needed to make it particular, I deliberate an eight-course meal. So I really feel it has rather a lot to do with my temper. Whereas smaller teams of meals gatherings used to happen at the least twice a month, I might organise bigger gatherings as soon as in two months. The frequency will increase between October and January which is full of festivals and associates’ birthdays.

What’s your go-to meals by way of cooking? What do you take into accounts once you’re cooking for others?
The meals that I immediately connect with, that I can whip up at a second’s discover, is the meals that I prepare dinner at house and that’s one thing that I introduce to even those that are coming in for the primary time. I really feel like that turns into a very good introduction to North-Japanese meals to start with as a result of loads of instances folks haven’t actually been uncovered to it or even when they’ve heard of it, they’ve preconceived notions of what it could possibly be like. There’s an entire dialog concerning the meals smelling or tasting a sure method and it’s good to see folks opening as much as meals that they might not eat in any other case.

Is there a defining issue that may be a widespread characteristic in all of your events? By way of the modus operandi, what’s a go-to technique that you’ve got found alongside the best way?
By way of decor and aesthetic, I don’t prefer to overdo it. Going with parts like flowers at all times works nicely — you simply have to stay to what you understand and other people will respect it. Throughout my home, I’ve baskets woven within the Manipuri village of Patsoi the place my paternal grandparents dwell. For Christmas, I’d usually do up my giant pencil cactus plant. By way of the temper, I often take a look at making a heat setting and making folks really feel like they’re at house. I would like folks to work together, and get entangled, though I don’t allow them to into the kitchen. Aside from that, I allow them to take management of the music and I additionally allow them to take management of tips on how to proceed with the day or evening.

1. A vignette of Daksha Salam’s Verve luncheon.
2. Lotus fruits and ceramic candlesticks characteristic in Salam’s desk setting.
3. Naturals’ tender coconut ice cream with freshly poached peaches.

How necessary is the general ritual of setting the desk and is that one thing you noticed or participated in whereas rising up?
I’ve this vivid reminiscence of my mom saying how at age eight or 9, I might deliver out the desk mats from the cabinets and lay them out whereas ready for the meals to prepare. I might place the desk mats on the desk, lay out the plates and spoons in a sure method. It advanced into one thing larger and larger as I grew up. Having stated that, I don’t consider in a very inflexible format of how the desk must be set.

Have you ever ever hosted a gathering in your hometown?
Once I went again to Imphal this yr, within the first half, I did prepare dinner for my complete prolonged household — my aunts, my grandfather, my cousins. I used to be there for a couple of month so there have been days after I would prepare dinner the standard meals that we eat and they might get a style of how I ready the usuals. Each particular person has a singular contact. So the best way I might prepare dinner a curry or a dal could be very totally different from the best way they’ve at all times eaten it. Regardless that they use comparable recipes, there’s at all times a slight change within the flavour when the prepare dinner modifications. However then there have been days after I would prepare dinner dal makhani or kosha mangsho, which is totally totally different from what they might eat normally. That’s one thing that I picked up alone, in Delhi. I might take a look at recipes for consolation meals round India. Dal makhani is so emblematic of North India and I would like my household to have that as a result of it’s so wealthy and hearty. The identical additionally goes for kosha mangsho which is mutton that’s slow-cooked within the Bengali fashion. I bear in mind consuming it as soon as in Kolkata with my father who grew up there. That was one thing that had been caught in my head for a really very long time and I attempted to recreate the recipe. Sometimes, throughout Eid, I prepare dinner biryani, particularly the Kolkata-style biryani.

How have your meals events advanced over time?
Within the preliminary levels, I started by feeding three folks in my small one-bedroom-hall-kitchen condo and the quantity grew to 10 after I moved right into a two-bedroom-hall-kitchen final yr. With time, I turned extra open to exploring totally different cuisines. In my first yr in Delhi, I might solely prepare dinner North-Japanese consolation meals however over time, I’ve began specializing in grazing tables — dips and bread, for example — and meals that’s in tune with festivals like Chinese language New Yr, Eid or Diwali. For instance, for Christmas, I might prepare dinner an entire roast rooster.

How do you actively create consciousness concerning the delicacies of your hometown or regional cuisines from the North-East?
I present my company a technique to discover totally different cuisines and cultures. The substances that we use, say, in Manipur often is the similar ones utilized in Nagaland or Mizoram however they might be used very otherwise. My associates have, over time, began to grasp this. It’s fascinating that there are totally different recipes with the identical substances.

Do any particular examples come to thoughts?
Tuning kok is a root that the Meitei group makes use of in its uncooked type in Manipuri cooking solely for garnishing functions. In Nagaland, it’s used as a predominant ingredient. The Khasis in Meghalaya name the identical root jamyrdoh. Perilla seeds are extensively utilized by the Meitei group in Manipur; we crush them and blend them with ginger to make a dip. We additionally make a chutney with the seeds and eat it on the aspect. However, a Naga or a Khasi from Meghalaya would prepare dinner an entire meat dish centred round this, with simply the addition of ginger and garlic. So it’s fascinating to see how this one ingredient discovered via the North-East is consumed in numerous methods.

How intentional is the curation of your visitor lists? Are there sure commonalities that you simply bear in mind?
Once I prepare dinner for my associate’s birthday or my good friend’s farewell, then the get together is proscribed to our circle. However it’s fascinating to see how those that haven’t actually tried my cooking react to the regional meals. It’s good to see folks responding to it in a constructive method.

The truth is, on the luncheon that we had for Verve lately, my associates had introduced their plus-ones — certainly one of them lives in Dublin and the opposite is from Cornwall. And so they responded to the delicacies so nicely — proper from the extent of spice to the form of consolation that they bought out of it. The Irish visitor stated that they might eat one thing actually much like the pork stew I made again at their house however with a special vegetable that’s domestically grown and never the mustard greens that I used. The visitor from Cornwall is half-Khasi so he began speaking concerning the root that I used and the way it’s so much like the meals that his mom likes to eat once they journey to Meghalaya. The one commonality is that they’re open to attempting meals that’s new to them.

Are these gatherings a neater technique to socialise and join with folks, particularly once you’re in a brand new metropolis and are looking for a assist system?
The folks I name for lunch or dinner are a recurring lot. They’re the core group I’ve fashioned over time however there are days after we even have plus-ones are available, be it a good friend or a date that they need to introduce, and I really feel like this intimate setting is so a lot better for attending to know new folks as an alternative of going out ingesting or clubbing. I might say having these luncheons permits folks to work together in a extra natural method.

Every time I’ve to plan a meal, I’ve to discover what town’s markets have, the pricing and so forth. I work out what’s one thing that I can substitute an ingredient with. I bear in mind after I moved to Delhi initially, and I didn’t actually know concerning the existence of the North-Japanese retailers right here, I might exchange the umami flavour that comes from fermented fish in loads of our cooking with Thai fish sauce as a result of that was simply out there.

Is that this one thing you look to start out in Bengaluru — once more a brand new metropolis for you?
I might like to however proper now we’re fairly occupied with Nari & Kāge. I find yourself spending most of my days within the kitchen. I feel I’d begin with meals centred round Nari & Kāge and the cheeses that we’re so obsessed with. I don’t have a good friend circle in Bengaluru but. That’s the precedence for now.

Did you gravitate in direction of extra intimate settings as you grew older or was it one thing you had been seeking to incorporate from an earlier level in your life?
It occurred steadily. I’ve at all times been a homebody. I like inviting folks to an area that I’ve created — it means a lot extra and you may solely try this when you find yourself in an area the place you are feeling snug permitting different folks into your house. I don’t suppose I might have been ready to try this at a youthful age and it solely comes with beginning to perceive your self higher.

What makes an excellent host?
The precedence of a number ought to be to make folks really feel at house, really feel snug. That’s the baseline. I give loads of significance to the meals that might be consumed. I’ve seen gatherings the place folks simply Swiggy in some meals and that’s not how I may ever function. There ought to be an emphasis on good meals and the extent of effort put in. That’s what makes a lunch or ceremonial dinner.

Earlier: The Introduction and The Menu
Subsequent: The Company