This overcoat from Ettore de Cesare in Naples has been featured earlier than, in the fashion characteristic a few weeks in the past speaking about silk scarves and shades of navy.
Nonetheless, there have been just a few feedback not too long ago that readers admire articles on new commissions, even when I’ve used the tailor earlier than and successfully reviewed their work.
I can see the way it serves as a spotlight for present ideas on a class of bespoke tailoring, corresponding to overcoats at present. I would make one a 12 months, for instance, and protecting it’s a helpful jumping-off level for discussions of how one’s wardrobe evolves, or altering views on worth – or just a spot the place readers can ask all of the questions they’ve proper now about coats.
So right here’s a bit evaluation of this new coat from Ettore, adopted by extra common factors.
Ettore de Cesare is a stable technician. All of the items I’ve had from him have match effectively from the beginning, and this coat was no exception.
The primary issues I search for on the first becoming are inevitably those the place I do know tailors have difficulties. They embrace a clear drop on the prime of the sleeve, which isn’t all the time straightforward with my rounded shoulders; the suitable facet of the garment (my proper) as my decrease proper shoulder could make the steadiness laborious; and an in depth match on the collar, which makes an enormous distinction on my barely lengthy neck.
Ettore nailed all this stuff. In fact, he has a longtime sample for me now, however that was true with the first coat six years in the past too.
I’ve included some straight-on photographs beneath for instance. The one factor I’d need to enhance could be lifting up the shoulders on the again, though keep in mind I like numerous fullness at the back of a coat: there’s nothing worse than attempting to get on a coat over a jacket when the match is only a bit too tight.
In fact, this fashion of Ulster coat additionally intentionally has fullness visibly gathered into the waist, no matter type of pleat or fold it’s completed with.
The place Ettore and I usually differ is fashion. His default with a jacket with a excessive gorge, a shorter size and an in depth match. The extra modern finish of the Neapolitan fashion spectrum.
Luckily we’ve established that this isn’t my fashion now, and once more, fittings run effectively because of this. The quantity of consolation I like has been famous – not simply mentally, however I’m certain someplace bodily on the patterns.
Model points did rear their head once more with this coat, nevertheless, due partially to an absence of communication, and partially the dearth of examples to attempt on.
I might see most features of the fashion of the coat on the becoming – the peak of the waist button, the quantity of overlap, the road of the lapel. However as is usually the case, we had been drawing on the place and angle of the gorge – and subsequently the form of the collar.
The gorge line on the ultimate outcome was extra downward-sloping than I anticipated, definitely in comparison with different Ulster-style coats. Take a look at my Liverano or Ciardi variations, and you may see the distinction.
When the collar is up, this simply means there’s a barely smaller, barely extra pointed form across the chin. However when it’s down I feel the form of the collar relatively stands out, and I do put on coats extra with the collar down lately – normally with a shawl, with a better outfit.
In contrast to different overcoats, Ettore additionally included a button on the cuff of the coat. It’s not an enormous factor, however had I identified it was going to be there I’d have gone with out. I feel it appears to be like a bit misplaced subsequent to the large turn-back cuff.
The highest set of buttons on the entrance had been additionally set fairly far aside, however that after all could be modified.
General, whereas I just like the coat, it’s a reminder of the purpose I made in my first piece on my favorite tailors: at any time when doable see an instance of the factor you’re going to fee, particularly if it’s a DB or overcoat, the place design selections make such a distinction.
The fabric, however, was completely excellent: a Fox Brothers 20oz merino in a midnight herringbone (CT12). Intentionally a bit lighter in weight than a few of my others, however dense and with a beautiful drape.
My different navy DB coat, a cashmere from Cifonelli, continues to be nice however isn’t fairly as versatile this will probably be. Not simply due to the seen ending on the Cifonelli, however as a result of that cashmere makes it too formal (for me) to look good with denims.
Though I’ve by no means worn that Cifonelli closely – given it’s by no means been my solely coat – I nonetheless suppose the cashmere has aged fairly effectively. However this wool will probably be higher, and have that versatility of fashion.
That’s illustrated by the outfit right here. Even thought it’s pretty sensible (the navy jacket and trousers detailed beforehand right here) the previous Ralph Lauren cap sits higher with this coat than with the luxe Cifonelli. Distinction is meant, however not fairly that a lot.
Different issues to notice are the suede that Ettore usually makes use of on his clothes, and I’ve right here in black on my undercollar.
And on the flip facet, I feel it’s honest to say Ettore’s ending just isn’t fairly pretty much as good as some Neapolitans, and positively not on the stage of the English, French or Milanese. That lapel buttonhole is about common for Naples, with some finer and longer.
We took these photographs one night in Naples, by the way in which, on the waterfront after a busy day visiting factories. I feel the small print come out sufficient, but when something isn’t clear please do ask.
Seeing them once more jogs my memory how nice a DB overcoat like this appears to be like in use, in movement, with arms in pockets and even in trouser pockets. Static poses simply by no means do it justice.
Ettore de Cesare travels to London commonly, normally utilizing the Holland & Sherry showrooms, now in an even bigger house on Savile Row.
The overcoat value £3500, which is Ettore’s beginning worth for all wool coats. Jackets begin at £2500. You’ll be able to see the place they’re made, in Ettore’s Neapolitan workshop, from our go to right here.
