Given we talked just lately about carrying extra belts, it appears well timed to evaluation a belt I just lately had made by Russian maker @Tightly_Stitched. 

I did so as a result of I discover there’s a relative lack of fine belt manufacturers on the market, and I couldn’t discover the fashion I wished. 

Most belts are bought by manufacturers that concentrate on different issues, and belts are a little bit of an afterthought. They are usually pretty customary. Not that you really want a variety of belts in purple, inexperienced and with unique buckles; similar to sneakers or coats, it’s finest to play it secure. 

However it’s good if a model has a view on its belts, similar to they do with the remainder of their garments – suggesting {that a} one-inch width is nicest, for instance, or that western types do or don’t work with their aesthetic. 

The opposite difficulty with belts is that the majority particular person makers solely have a small vary of types and supplies. 

Most British makers use bridle and different heavy leathers. Bridle is nice, robust and characterful, however a specific look and never one of the best with sensible trousers. Most French and Italians, then again, use solely positive calf and suede, with a number of exotics. The primary additionally are likely to solely use extra rugged buckles, the second sleeker ones.

I used to be advisable to strive Sergey @Tightly_Stitched as a result of he makes use of a wide range of leather-based and belt designs, and has the notice to know what’s fascinating or related with guys on-line. This meant he may make the rough-out braided fashion I used to be after. 

Sergey (under) additionally knew heaps about western types, about buckle shapes and makes, and we had lengthy conversations about issues like engine-turned types and untreated brass. 

I at all times discover a bit of stunning when leather-goods makers don’t know a lot about, or experiment with, their {hardware}. They only provide what their provider affords. Sergey has developed his personal methodology of making an aged look, oxidising the buckle in ammonia vapour after which lightening it with a weak acid answer to deliver it to the specified shade. 

And with the braid of my leather-based, he had a dozen totally different sample choices, which he’d seen on-line from manufacturers after which recreated. I hadn’t even thought of braid patterns, however immediately I needed to assume by way of which I favored finest. 

Nonetheless, there are downsides to working remotely with a craftsman, and commissioning one thing from scratch, as I used to be to search out out. 

The belt Sergey despatched me was nice in most methods. It was the proper color of suede, and the buckle was an excellent form and color. 

However I discovered it arduous to make use of: the prong was troublesome to get by way of the braid, and the keeper was each fairly small and near the buckle. The mixture was awkward. 

Sergey and I received right into a dialog concerning the fashion of the braid. (The factors concerning the keeper had been extra simple.) It seems that the majority braided belts are made on a specific machine (under) which makes them in a specific stress. Whenever you make one by hand, as Sergey does, that stress is unavoidably tighter, and the prong is more durable to get by way of.

 

 

I additionally observed that the path of the braid sample Sergey had used was the reverse of the one on my reference belt – an previous leather-based one from E Tautz. 

On mine, the ‘V’ in the course of the belt pointed away from the tip. On the one Sergey had made, that V pointed in the direction of it. I recommended that maybe that made it more durable to make use of as properly. 

Sergey despatched me a number of pictures to point out that each instructions had been frequent in ready-made belts, and that’s true. See picture under displaying each instructions. 

Nonetheless, Sergey agreed to make me a brand new belt to interchange the primary one, with the braid within the different path. And once I obtained that, it was a lot simpler to make use of. So maybe on handmade braids, the path is extra related. 

The alternative belt didn’t make a lot distinction to the keeper, which remains to be a bit of awkward, nevertheless it’s a minor level in comparison with fastening with the prong. 

I additionally discovered that the primary belt stretched – once more, most likely as a result of being handmade – with the size going from 110cm to 114cm after a number of wears. So with the second belt we made it that a lot shorter. 

Sergey additionally recommended an excellent use for the primary belt, which was to show it into a mode with two rings (under) as a result of this doesn’t require a metallic prong. The belt would nonetheless be fairly lengthy, however to an extent that’s the fashion with that sort of belt. 

I’m simply unsure I’d hold it down fairly within the method within the picture under. 

Regardless of these points, I feel I’d use Sergey once more. He handled my questions and issues properly, and reacted in a optimistic and open method. 

It’s straightforward to be defensive when somebody criticises your work, notably when it’s a product on which you haven’t had destructive suggestions earlier than. However Sergey was open to it, , and learnt from the expertise. 

Additionally, frankly, there’s nonetheless that lack of makers with a variety and curiosity. I ought to be aware that Sergey additionally does distressing on belts, works with a silversmith that does numerous designs of western buckle, and makes some baggage. 

It will simply be simpler, and extra predictable, if it had been doable to see the product in individual – for instance by way of trunk exhibits. And the actual fact Sergey is predicated in Russia does make sending items backwards and forwards troublesome – the choices are both an costly courier (UPS is the most cost effective, $95) that takes 5-7 days, or common submit ($20) that takes 30-40 days. 

Sergey does make for a number of outlets, together with The Armoury, Decorum and Leather-based Healer. However that’s beneath their model. He says he would possibly look to do trunk exhibits himself a while sooner or later.

My belt, in rough-out suede with an aged brass buckle, value $150. Most of Sergey’s work is seen on his Instagram @tightly_stitched, however there’s additionally a Russian weblog with the imagery right here.

Pictures: Alex Natt @ad_natt and @tightly_stitched