Ann Demeulemeester‘s Stefano Gallici Honors Model Codes for Debut Present – WWD

By News Author

Ann Demeulemeester‘s Stefano Gallici Honors Model Codes for Debut Present – WWD

News Author

Set in a darkish industrial house on a former railway, Stefano Gallici’s first present as artistic director of Ann Demeulemeester opened on a soundtrack of trains’ clanking noises that reminded one of many comings and goings the model has witnessed in lower than a yr.

As Ludovic de Saint Sernin’s journey on the label abruptly stopped after roughly six months, Gallici proved he’s beginning his personal with a distinct perspective, veering the model towards a darker, grittier sensuality from the extra glam seductiveness his predecessor supplied a glimpse of.

Naked pores and skin was traded for comfortable layering and transparencies, whereas the teeny-tiny feather tops that made essentially the most influence final season gave strategy to heavy leather-based belting and loads of lengthy ribbons kissing the bottom and dragged round, amplifying fashions’ decisive strut on the lengthy catwalk.

Total, Gallici stayed true to the model, anchoring the gathering on its core parts, like elongated silhouettes, androgynous tailoring and the signature white shirts with cuffs extending previous the wrist, along with nods to archival Ann Demeulemeester exhibits within the pops of colours that punctuated the lineup.

As this progressed, Gallici additionally stepped into extra utilitarian-inflected territory with a collection of pocketed jackets and his tackle cargo pants, earlier than finally providing his model of a night proposition by way of satin lengthy clothes and brief frocks with the leather-based belt detailing looped on the again or across the waist, respectively.

Though making for a compelling effort, the gathering nonetheless lacked the spark {that a} poetic contact might have instilled in garments. There’s little we find out about Gallici himself, who joined the model in 2020 and was beforehand menswear designer on the label, and the present didn’t supply a lot perception.

For his debut, Gallici stayed mum about each the gathering and the path he would love the model to take, solely sharing a be aware on Instagram to behave like a manifesto of his tenure.

“The liberty to be as one desires, boundlessly. That is what Ann Demeulemeester stands for immediately,” reads a passage. Want extra intel? “Definitions are a killer,” reads the next sentence. So solely time will inform.

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